Things are going much better. I fixed the pilot on the stove burners. Actually I suspect they already worked. There are a few crucial steps to observe. Most importantly, the gas for the pilots are only on if the dial of the oven is turned to “pilot on” (the manual actually says that, but the understanding it correctly is another problem entirely). So “pilot on” does not only apply just to the oven. Second, there’s a valve for the pilot light itself which was previously turned off. This was not mentioned in the manual. Once both were turned on, there were no problems with the stove pilot resulting in a retrospective “doh!” moment. Another reason I have been postponing the LP gas was that I have not been able to find the pilot light for the oven. The manual says its either to the right or the left of the burner. It had two illustrations neither of which looked familiar. Then I noticed it said “burner” not “burners”. Must be the oven burner and that would make sense given my (new?) understanding of pilot lights. Out the flashlight came and lo and behold. There’s one looking like the illustration only upside down. Lit instantly. So now we don’t have to cook everything in the microwave or slowcooker.
Second, I have been eyeing the water heater (also not working). I have learned that I have an Atwood gas heater with electronic ignition. I do not know how big it is (either 6 or 10 gallons). I knew that I should not start it without having the water tank full of water, also there should not be any air in it. I delay a lot of things due to lack of information. This also avoids a lot of potential problems. So out with the wrench. I tried the drain valve first (note to others, bleed the air first!) and water started dripping until I got it out. The air pressure in the tank then exploded and supersoaked my face. Alright, plug again. Turn on warm water faucet until the air in the plumbing is gone. Bleed the rest with the valve at the heater. `
Now according to the manual, if the light comes on when we turn on the heater, it means that it’s not igniting. What we, therefore, have done so far is to turn it on, observe the light, hear it click, watch the light go out, and then turn it off. Doh! What actually happens in that sequence is that the heater correctly indicates no burning (with the light), then ignites causing the light to go out. And then we typically switch it off thinking it has failed due to air in the gas pipes. As I said: Doh! This became painfully obvious when we tried it in the dark: “Tell me when the light goes on and out”, I shouted to DW while observing the heater from the outside. It was painfully clear then, what was actually happening. a) Water heater is switched on b) light goes on showing its not burning, presumable the gas valve opens at this point c) the igniter clicks in lighting the gas d) the light goes out on the panel at which point we have normally switched it off. Problem solved.